This might not be a solution for the busy multi-tasker women out there, but if you want a great under-eye coverage, here is how it is done. This can be reserved for special occasions, or tailored for your own needs and lifestyle. For example, you can follow the same steps below but with using less product; this will save time in blending and Finessing.
- Gently moisturize the under eye before application with your favorite eye cream. One of my absolute favorites is Sisleya Contour Cream. A cheaper alternative is Kiehl’s Creamy Eye Treatment with Avocado.
- One of the most effective ways to a perfect under-eye is to apply two different concealers that perform different functions; Apply the first layer for coverage and the second layer for brightening. Applying just one product for full coverage may require over use of products which can lead to a cakey look. For the first layer, apply a thicker/creamer concealer in a v-shape under the eye. The thinner the application, the better the result. Then pat this in with your finger or beauty blender. The v-shape is drawn from the side of the nose all the way down towards the beginning of the nose (this will vary for every person on how far down to go). A v-shape creates a lift to the face, so ensure that the shape ends up being a ‘v’. Continue drawing the ‘v’ towards the temple and outer corner of the eyes. My favorite concealer in this step is the Mac Studio Concealer Palette. Learn how to apply this product and it will truly become your best friend. The second layer is a lighter consistency in texture and a bit lighter in shade than the first concealer. Everyone has a preference on how light they like this area to be, but a general rule of thumb is one shade lighter than your skin tone; this will show a contrast between the dark and light and can be very flattering. The lighter shade will also eliminate the need to apply too much concealer in the first step and can camouflage darker areas. The lighter shade will be applied in the inner corner of the eyes only and then blended outwards. Do not take this out too far down the face, as it would defeat the purpose. My favorite concealer for this second layer is the Laura Mercier Flawless Fusion concealer. I often find as well that applying two sets of concealers often eliminates the need for a colour corrector. I have dark under-eye circles and this works for me. After application, blend into the skin with a brush, beauty blender, or finger.
- Lightly pat the under eye area with a tissue paper to remove any excess product. Be sure not to wipe away any product. This step will help to reduce the amount of powder that is needed to set the under eye in the next step.
- Powder under-eye with a light dust of powder using a soft powder brush. Too much powder can result in cake lines. Two of my tried and true powders are: Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder and YSL Souffle D’Eclat. If a heavy layer of powder is applied at this stage, the skin will absorb excess powder which will result in heavy lines. So powder lightly.
- Powder yet again. This time, powder with a fluffy brush, makeup sponge or powder puff, but with a heavier layer of powder. In your application be sure to apply pressure so that the powder sets the makeup. This pressure will help to achieve a seamless finish. As well, a heavier amount of powder will help to hide any discoloration and brighten up the area.
- Lightly spray with Mac Fix Plus to set the makeup and correct the powdered look. I have only ever used Mac Fix Plus so I cannot vouch for other products.
Following these steps will ensure a picture perfect look every time.